Grand'Riviere

The coast road narrows and ends at Grand'Riviere, the northernmost village of Martinique, between the forested flank of Mount Pelée and an Atlantic shore with no harbour, only a black-sand beach where the gommier fishing boats are launched through the surf and the catch is sold on the sand when they return. Beyond the village a coastal footpath of about eighteen kilometres runs to Anse Couleuvre through forest, ravines and empty coves, one of the island's best-known long walks. The village has Creole houses in bright colours, simple restaurants serving the morning's catch, and Dominica on the horizon.

What you'll find

• The gommier launches - surf-running fishing boats off the black sand.
• The end-of-road village - Creole streets under the slopes of Pelée.
• The coastal trail - the 18-kilometre wilderness path to Anse Couleuvre.
• Dominica on the horizon - the neighbour island from the front street.

When to go

December to May for trail conditions and calmer (relatively) seas; fish lunches follow the morning landings - arrive before noon. The trail is a full committed day with transport arranged at the far end.

Things to know

The sea here is dangerous for swimming - watch the boats instead; the trail crosses ravines that flash-flood in rain and should be walked prepared, ideally guided, never solo in wet weather. The village is small: an atmospheric hour or a trail base, not a resort. The drive's final bends want your full attention.

Nearby

Basse-Pointe, Macouba's rum heights and Anse Couleuvre around the wild corner.

Key facts