The Plaka

The Plaka is the old heart of Athens, a charming maze of narrow lanes, neoclassical houses, tavernas and shops climbing the northern slopes of the Acropolis. At its top hides Anafiotika, a tiny cluster of whitewashed, bougainvillea-draped houses built by island craftsmen that feels like a Cycladic village transplanted into the city, all beneath the great rock and its temples.

What you actually see

• The neoclassical lanes - the pretty streets of old houses, shops and tavernas.
• Anafiotika - the whitewashed island-like village clinging below the Acropolis.
• The tavernas - the outdoor restaurants and cafes of the old quarter.
• The views up to the Acropolis - the rock rising above the rooftops.

When to go

Spring and autumn for mild weather and outdoor dining; summer evenings are lively once the heat fades. Early morning gives the quiet lanes and Anafiotika before the crowds.

Honest expectations

The main lanes are very touristy, lined with souvenir shops and tavernas that tout for custom; the quieter back streets and Anafiotika hold the real charm. It is a place to wander and eat rather than a sight to tick off. Prices near the Acropolis run high.

Nearby

The Acropolis and the Ancient Agora are directly above; Monastiraki's markets are alongside.