Karytaina

Karytaina occupies a rock spur above the Alfeios valley, crowned by a castle built in 1254 by the Frankish baron Geoffrey de Bruyères, whose knightly reputation earned him a place in the Chronicle of the Morea; the ruined enceinte, cistern and hall are freely accessible up a steep path. The village below has shrunk to a few dozen residents and its stone houses, some restored, cluster around Byzantine churches with painted interiors. Down in the gorge stands the medieval bridge over the Alfeios, one of the most photographed in the Peloponnese, with a chapel built into a pier and later arches added over the centuries. The setting, castle above, gorge below, mountains around, gave the place the nickname Toledo of Greece, coined by nineteenth-century travellers.

What you actually see

• The Frankish castle - thirteenth-century walls and hall on the summit rock.
• The medieval bridge - an old crossing of the Alfeios with a pier chapel.
• The village churches - small Byzantine buildings with frescoes.
• The valley view - the Alfeios gorge and the mountains of Arcadia.

When to go

Spring and autumn for comfortable climbing and clear air. Summer midday on the bare rock is hot. Winter can be beautiful with snow on the surrounding peaks.

Honest expectations

The village is largely depopulated, with limited services and few places to eat. The castle path is steep, unfenced in places and unsuitable in poor footwear. Churches are usually locked; keys are held locally.

Nearby

The Lousios gorge and Stemnitsa lie north; Bassae and Andritsaina are west.