Pylos and Niokastro

Pylos climbs from a square of plane trees and arcades above one of the finest natural harbours in the Mediterranean, Navarino Bay, closed off by the long island of Sfaktiria. On the headland stands Niokastro, the new castle, begun in 1573: a walled enclosure running down to the sea with a six-sided citadel, bastions, a domed church that served as a mosque, and long stretches of rampart that visitors can walk. Inside are restored barracks housing exhibitions, including material from underwater archaeology in the bay, and gardens of pine and cypress. The town below has arcaded shops, a fishing quay and boat trips to Sfaktiria and the caves. Across the bay the older castle of Palaiokastro guards Voidokilia beach.

What you actually see

• The Niokastro ramparts - walls, bastions and a hexagonal citadel above the sea.
• The domed church - a building that served both as church and mosque.
• The arcaded square - plane trees and colonnades at the town's centre.
• Navarino Bay - the great harbour closed by the island of Sfaktiria.

When to go

Spring and autumn for walking the walls comfortably; summer brings beach traffic to the region and the fortress offers little shade. The town square is pleasant at any season.

Honest expectations

Parts of Niokastro are frequently closed for restoration, and exhibition opening varies. The fortress is large and involves a lot of walking on uneven ground. Boat trips across the bay depend on weather and numbers.

Nearby

Gialova lagoon and Voidokilia beach lie north; the Palace of Nestor is twenty minutes inland.