Greek Olive Oil

Greek cooking uses olive oil at volumes that surprise visitors, poured over finished dishes as well as used to cook them, and the vocabulary reflects it: ladera, a whole category of vegetable dishes defined by being cooked in oil. Koroneiki is the dominant variety, small-fruited and high in polyphenols, planted across Messenia and Crete; Kalamon is the famous table olive rather than an oil grape. Harvest runs from November into January, when nets go down under the trees and village mills work through the night. The first pressing, agourelaio, is cloudy green, aggressively peppery and bitter at the back of the throat, and Greeks judge a new oil by exactly that burn.

What's there

• The winter harvest - nets under the trees, combs and rakes, and mills running around the clock.
• Agourelaio - the new green oil of November, bitter and peppery, drunk on bread.
• Koroneiki groves - the terraced hillsides of Messenia and western Crete.
• PDO names - Kalamata, Sitia and Kolymvari among the protected zones on labels.

When to go

November and December are the only months when the working side is visible, and small mills will often let you watch if you turn up politely rather than as a tour. Outside the harvest you can still taste and buy year-round at village co-operatives. Avoid August, when everything to do with production stops and only the shops are open.

Things to know

Much of what is sold abroad as Greek oil is blended and bottled elsewhere, so the meaningful buying happens here. Getting to a village mill needs a car, cash and some Greek or patience, and tastings are informal rather than staged. Genuinely good oil is expensive and the gap with supermarket oil is real. Tins are heavy, and liquid limits make carrying any quantity home by air awkward.

Nearby

Messenia's groves surround Ancient Messene and the Venetian castles of the southwest coast.