Kalamata Olives

The Kalamata olive is a distinct cultivar, large, almond-shaped and dark purple, with firm flesh that separates cleanly from the stone, and it carries protected designation of origin status for fruit grown in Messenia. Unlike most table olives it cannot be treated with lye without losing its character, so it is cured slowly in brine or with vinegar and salt over months, which is why a good one tastes of fruit rather than salt. Harvest runs from October into December and is done by hand or with light rakes onto nets, because the fruit bruises; the same region produces exceptional extra virgin oil from the Koroneiki variety. Kalamata's covered central market sells both, and several mills and estates in the surrounding hills receive visitors during pressing season.

What you actually see

• The autumn harvest - nets under the trees and hand-picking in the groves.
• Kalamata's market - stalls of cured olives, oils and Messenian produce.
• The mills in season - pressing under way from October to December.
• The groves - terraced olive country across the Messenian hills.

When to go

October to December to see the harvest and taste new oil; the market and shops sell year-round. Some estates offer tastings only in the pressing season, so arrange visits ahead.

Honest expectations

Not every olive labelled Kalamata comes from Messenia, since the name is contested in trade; look for the PDO mark on the jar. Mill visits are working operations, not polished tourist attractions, and the smell of fermentation is strong.

Nearby

Koroni and Methoni lie south; the Mani and Kardamyli begin down the coast.