Halesi Mahadev

Halesi is a limestone hill in Khotang containing three main caves, and it is venerated by two traditions at once: Hindus hold that Shiva hid here from the demon Bhasmasur and the main cave is his shrine, while Buddhists identify it as Maratika, where Padmasambhava and Mandarava are said to have accomplished the practice of long life, which makes it a major Vajrayana pilgrimage site with monasteries built around it. The caves are entered by steps down through narrow openings, and passages inside are tight; one narrow gap is used as a test of sin, as at Gom Kora. Pilgrims of both faiths come in numbers, particularly at Shivaratri and at Tibetan festival dates, and the site is busy and loud.

What you actually see

• The main cave shrine - the Shiva sanctuary reached down steps.
• The Maratika associations - the Buddhist monasteries built around the site.
• The narrow passage - the squeeze used as a test by pilgrims.
• Two traditions together - Hindu and Buddhist worship at the same caves.

When to go

October to April for the roads and the climate. Shivaratri in late winter is the biggest Hindu gathering; Tibetan festival dates bring Buddhist pilgrims. Weekdays outside festivals are quietest.

Honest expectations

The caves are dark, cramped and slippery, and the narrow passages are genuinely tight. It is crowded and noisy at festivals. The roads into Khotang are rough and the journey from Kathmandu is long. Facilities are basic.

Nearby

Diktel lies north; Dharan is south in the Terai.