The Gokyo Lakes

The Gokyo valley runs parallel to the main Everest Base Camp route and, for many trekkers, beats it. A string of lakes sits at between roughly 4,700 and 5,000 metres alongside the Ngozumpa glacier, the longest in Nepal, and their water is a startling turquoise against grey moraine and snow. Above the third and largest lake rises Gokyo Ri, a walk-up peak of about 5,357 metres climbed in the dark to reach the top for sunrise, and the view from it is arguably the finest in the Himalaya: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu, four of the world's six highest mountains, standing together above the glacier. The trail is quieter than the base camp route, the villages smaller, and many people link the two by crossing the Cho La pass, which turns it into a serious two-week circuit.

What you actually see

• Gokyo Ri at sunrise - the dawn climb for the view of four eight-thousand-metre peaks.
• The turquoise lakes - the chain of glacial lakes along the valley.
• The Ngozumpa glacier - the longest glacier in Nepal, alongside the trail.
• The Cho La pass - the crossing that links Gokyo with the Everest Base Camp route.

When to go

March to May and October to November are the trekking seasons, with October generally the clearest; winter is very cold with pass closures and the monsoon brings cloud and leeches lower down. Altitude means the itinerary must include acclimatisation days rather than being rushed.

Honest expectations

This is high-altitude trekking and altitude sickness is the real risk, not fitness: ascend slowly, build in acclimatisation days and be willing to descend. Flights to and from Lukla are frequently delayed or cancelled by weather, so build in spare days at both ends. Teahouses are basic and cold above 4,000 metres. The Cho La pass involves glacier crossing and should not be attempted in poor conditions or without a guide.

Nearby

Namche Bazaar and the Everest Base Camp trail are the neighbouring routes; Lukla is the airstrip gateway.