Margarites

Margarites has been a pottery village for as long as records go back, one of a handful on Crete where the clay and the tradition survived, and around a dozen workshops still work here, several with wood-fired kilns. The signature product is the pithos, the great storage jar of the Minoan tradition still made by coiling and thrown pieces, alongside tableware, oil lamps and garden pots; potters generally let visitors watch the wheel. The village itself is a steep hillside of stone houses and vine-shaded lanes with views over the Mylopotamos valley, and it has small Byzantine churches with frescoes. Prices are lower than in the resort shops, and the heavier pieces can be shipped.

What you actually see

• The working potteries - a dozen workshops, several with wood-fired kilns.
• The pithoi - great storage jars in the Minoan tradition.
• The village lanes - stone houses and vine-covered streets on the slope.
• The valley view - the Mylopotamos valley from the upper village.

When to go

Spring and autumn, when the workshops are active and the village comfortable to walk; summer sees coach visits mid-morning. Some workshops close on Sundays.

Honest expectations

Not everything sold is made in the village, so ask which pieces are local. The lanes are steep and parking is at the edge. The visit is short unless you spend time in the workshops.

Nearby

Eleutherna's site and museum lie minutes away; Arkadi monastery is south.