Spili

Spili sits at around four hundred and thirty metres on the slopes of Mount Kedros, and its centrepiece is a long stone fountain of Venetian origin where water from the mountain springs runs continuously from nineteen carved lion heads into a trough, shaded by plane trees. Villagers and passing drivers fill bottles from it, and the temperature of the water is a local point of pride. The village behind is a run of stepped lanes with flowers on the walls, a few tavernas and shops selling herbs and honey from the hills. It is a standard stop on the road across the island and can fill with coaches at midday, but early or late it returns to being a working village.

What you actually see

• The lion fountain - nineteen carved heads pouring spring water.
• The plane square - shaded seating and cafes around the fountain.
• The stepped lanes - narrow flowered streets behind the main road.
• The herb shops - mountain herbs, honey and raki sold locally.

When to go

Spring for green slopes and flowers, autumn for mild days; the village is on a main route so midday coach stops are common in season. Early morning and evening are quiet.

Honest expectations

Spili is a stop rather than a destination, seen in an hour, and the main road runs straight through it with traffic noise. The lanes are steep and stepped. Souvenir shops line the section by the square.

Nearby

The Kourtaliotiko gorge and Preveli lie south; Rethymno and the north coast are half an hour away.