Rethymno Old Town

Rethymno's old town survived largely intact, which makes it the most complete Venetian-Ottoman urban ensemble on Crete: narrow lanes of carved stone doorframes with family arms, wooden Turkish balconies overhanging the streets, minarets rising above tiled roofs, and the Rimondi fountain of 1626 with its lion heads still running. Above the town stands the Fortezza, a huge Venetian fortress completed in 1590 whose walls enclose a hill with the domed Sultan Ibrahim mosque, built inside the ruined cathedral, and views over the sea. The Venetian harbour below is a small basin ringed by restaurants with a lighthouse of the Ottoman period at its mouth. Long sandy beach runs east from the town.

What you actually see

• The Fortezza - a Venetian fortress enclosing a hilltop with a domed mosque.
• The Rimondi fountain - a 1626 Venetian fountain with lion-head spouts.
• The Venetian harbour - a small basin with an Ottoman-era lighthouse.
• The old lanes - carved doorways, minarets and overhanging balconies.

When to go

Spring and autumn for walking the old town in comfort; summer evenings are lively but the harbour restaurants are tourist-priced. The Fortezza is best in late afternoon light.

Honest expectations

The harbour restaurants are aggressive in touting and expensive; the better food is in the back lanes. Parking in the old town is effectively impossible, so use the lots outside. Cruise and coach visitors fill the centre at midday.

Nearby

Arkadi monastery lies inland; the Kourtaliotiko gorge and the south coast are an hour away.