Lake Kournas

Kournas lies in a basin between hills about four kilometres from the north coast, roughly a kilometre across, fed by underground springs and the only natural freshwater lake on the island. Its colour shifts through the season and the day, from deep blue to green, and the level drops noticeably by late summer, exposing a sandy margin that visitors use as a beach. Pedal boats are the standard activity, and the lake is shallow enough at the edges to wade; terrapins live along the shore and come to the shallows, and eels and small fish are in the water. The White Mountains rise behind, and a path circles the lake in about an hour, mostly on the level.

What you actually see

• The lake basin - freshwater held in a bowl below the mountains.
• The terrapins - freshwater turtles in the shallows along the shore.
• The pedal boats - the standard way to get onto the water.
• The shore path - an hour's level circuit around the lake.

When to go

Late spring for the fullest water and green surroundings; autumn is quiet and clear. In August the near shore is crowded and the water level is at its lowest.

Honest expectations

The eastern shore is developed with tavernas, sunbeds and boat hire, so this is not a wild lake. Water levels vary dramatically between seasons. Parking is paid and fills quickly in season.

Nearby

Georgioupoli's long beach lies on the coast; Chania is half an hour west.