Rijeka Market Halls

Rijeka's market is three connected buildings and an open square, and the one worth walking into is the fish hall. It is an early twentieth-century pavilion of iron, glass and tile, its walls carved with fish, shells and other sea creatures, and it still does what it was built for: crushed ice, whole fish, scales and a great deal of noise before nine in the morning. The two older pavilions beside it, from the 1880s, hold meat, cheese and delicatessen counters, and the open stalls outside sell fruit, vegetables and flowers by the season. It is the least touristic market on this coast, which is most of the appeal.

What you actually see

• The fish hall - the tiled pavilion with carved sea creatures on the walls and whole fish on ice.
• The 1880s pavilions - cast iron and glass halls holding meat, cheese and cured pork counters.
• The outdoor stalls - seasonal fruit and vegetables from the Kvarner hinterland and Istria.
• The surrounding streets - small shops selling salted anchovies, olive oil and Kvarner scampi.

When to go

Early morning, ideally before nine, is when the fish comes in and the halls are working properly. Everything winds down by early afternoon and Sunday is closed or minimal. Weekdays are calmer than Saturday. Winter is a real season here, with cabbage, chestnuts and citrus rather than a summer display.

Honest expectations

This is a market for people who cook, not a food hall: there is nowhere to sit and eat and no curated stalls. The fish hall smells like a fish hall and the floor is wet. Cash is easier than card at the small counters. Arrive at noon and you will find half-empty slabs and someone hosing down, and wonder what the fuss was about.

Nearby

Trsat Castle stands above the city, and the Korzo promenade is a few streets away.