Volosko

Volosko was a fishing and shipping village long before Opatija became a resort, and although it is now administratively part of the same town, the two look nothing alike: Opatija is grand hotels and gardens, Volosko is a tight knot of lanes and steps running down to a working harbour with boats still in it. That contrast has made it the eating quarter of the riviera, with several of the better regarded fish restaurants in the country in a few hundred metres of narrow street. The Lungomare, the twelve kilometre seafront promenade, starts at the harbour here and runs south past Opatija to Lovran.

What you actually see

• A working harbour - boats and nets, not a marina.
• Lanes and steps to the water - the old village plan intact.
• The riviera's eating quarter - well regarded fish restaurants in a small area.
• The start of the Lungomare - twelve kilometres south to Lovran.

When to go

May to October. Half a day.

Honest expectations

The good restaurants book out and are not cheap. Parking is very difficult - the promenade from Opatija is the sensible approach. The lanes are steep and stepped. There is no beach here, only the harbour.

Nearby

Opatija is minutes south; Rijeka is north around the bay.