Rincon del Mar

Rincon del Mar is a fishing village on the Gulf of Morrosquillo that has only recently taken visitors, with hammock hostels and a handful of guesthouses along the sand and boats to the San Bernardo islands offshore. The particular draw is bioluminescence: in a nearby lagoon and in patches of the sea, dinoflagellates emit light when the water is agitated, so a hand pulled through it leaves a glowing trail. It works best on dark nights around the new moon and not at all under a full one, and the intensity varies with conditions - guides run night trips by canoe. The village has a substantial Afro-Colombian population and this coast has a difficult recent history that residents will discuss if asked.

What you actually see

• Bioluminescent water - lighting when disturbed, on dark nights.
• A working fishing village - only recently taking visitors.
• Boats to the San Bernardo islands - offshore.
• Night canoe trips - the usual way to see the lagoon.

When to go

December to April; new moon for the bioluminescence. A full day or overnight.

Honest expectations

Bioluminescence needs a dark moonless night and does not appear on demand - a full moon removes it entirely. The road in is unpaved. Facilities are basic and power is intermittent. Sandflies are a problem at dusk.

Nearby

Tolu is south; the San Bernardo islands are offshore.