Phra Sumen Fort

When Rama I moved the capital to Bangkok in 1782 he had the new city walled, with fourteen forts around the perimeter connected by a rampart and a canal moat. The city outgrew the walls within a century and most were demolished; two forts survive. Phra Sumen is the larger, an octagonal whitewashed structure of three tiers with cannon embrasures, built in 1783 at the point where the Banglamphu canal meets the Chao Phraya, and named for Mount Meru. It now stands in Santichaiprakan Park, a small riverside green with a lawn, a walking path along the water and a view across to Thonburi - which is what most people use it for, since the fort interior is not open. In the evening the park fills with joggers, aerobics classes and people sitting by the river, and it is a short walk from Khao San Road, which makes it a common quiet stop. Mahakan Fort, the other survivor, is near the Golden Mount.

What you actually see

• The octagonal fort - three tiers with cannon embrasures, built 1783.
• The park - riverside lawn and path around the base.
• The city wall story - two survivors of the original fourteen forts.
• The river view - across to Thonburi from the bank.

When to go

November to February; late afternoon and evening, when the park fills and the light on the river is best. Half an hour covers it.

Honest expectations

The fort interior is not open - it is viewed from outside only. The park is small. It is a stop rather than a destination, five minutes from Khao San.

Nearby

Khao San Road is a short walk east; the Phra Athit pier and river boats are alongside.