Loha Prasat

Loha Prasat means metal castle, and the form goes back to two earlier buildings - one in India in the Buddha's lifetime and one in Sri Lanka in the third century BC - both long gone. Rama III built this one at Wat Ratchanatdaram in 1846 as the third and last, and it is the only surviving example. It rises in five tiers to thirty-six metres with thirty-seven metal spires, one for each of the virtues leading to enlightenment, arranged in a square grid around a central shaft. Inside, concentric corridors run around each level with meditation cells opening off them and a spiral stair climbing the middle, and the upper terrace gives a view over Ratchadamnoen and the Golden Mount. It was neglected for long periods and the spires were painted black until a restoration gilded them in the 2010s, which changed its appearance substantially and is not to everyone's taste.

What you actually see

• The thirty-seven spires - one for each virtue on the path to enlightenment.
• The corridors - concentric passages with meditation cells on each level.
• The lineage - the only survivor of three such buildings ever made.
• The terrace view - over Ratchadamnoen toward the Golden Mount.

When to go

November to February. Mornings are quietest. It takes an hour, and pairs naturally with the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat nearby.

Honest expectations

The interior stair is narrow and steep. Access to the upper levels is sometimes restricted. The gilding is recent and divides opinion against the older black finish. Temple dress applies.

Nearby

The Golden Mount is a short walk east; Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing are south.