Lagunas de Ruidera

The Ruidera lakes are a chain of about fifteen lagoons running down a valley of the upper Guadiana, separated by natural dams of travertine, a limestone deposited by the water itself around vegetation, which builds up over time into barriers and creates small waterfalls between one lake and the next. The water is a strong turquoise from dissolved carbonates. It is an unexpected landscape in the dry Mancha plateau, and Cervantes set the Cave of Montesinos episode of Don Quixote at a cave in the valley. The lakes have been under pressure from irrigation and from summer visitor numbers, and access to several is now limited by parking quotas and paid entry in high season.

What you actually see

• The turquoise chain - fifteen lakes stepping down the valley.
• The travertine dams - natural limestone barriers between the lagoons.
• The waterfalls - drops between one lake and the next.
• The Cave of Montesinos - the cave Cervantes used in Don Quixote.

When to go

April to June and September to October for water levels and space; July and August bring heavy crowds, quotas and paid parking at the swimming lakes. Water levels drop noticeably in drought years.

Honest expectations

Summer access is capped, with parking quotas and charges at the popular lakes, and areas close when full. Water levels have fallen in dry years, exposing the travertine. Facilities are concentrated in a few spots and the valley is long.

Nearby

Villanueva de los Infantes lies west; Albacete and Alcala del Jucar are east.