Alcala del Jucar

The Jucar has cut a gorge through the limestone plateau of Albacete, and at Alcala it makes a tight loop around a spur of rock; the village climbs that spur in terraces of whitewashed houses with a castle of Almohad origin on the summit and a church below it. What distinguishes it is what is behind the facades: many houses extend as tunnels dug back into the soft rock, some running right through the spur to emerge on the far side with a balcony over the gorge, and several are open as cave houses to visit. A Roman-era bridge crosses the river below. The gorge road between Alcala and Jorquera is a slow drive through cliff and river country.

What you actually see

• The terraced village - whitewashed houses stacked up the gorge wall.
• The tunnel houses - dwellings dug through the rock with far-side balconies.
• The Almohad castle - a fortress on the summit of the spur.
• The river loop - the Jucar wrapping the rock below.

When to go

April to June and September to October; summer brings Spanish holidaymakers to the river and severe heat on the plateau. The gorge is green in spring and the river swimmable in high summer.

Honest expectations

Streets are extremely steep and narrow, with cars best left at the entrance. Cave houses are private with separate small entry charges and irregular hours. The village fills at weekends and in August.

Nearby

Jorquera lies down the gorge; Albacete and the Lagunas de Ruidera are west.