Tongyeong Jungang Market

Tongyeong sits among the islands of the Hallyeohaesang marine park and its market runs right along the Gangguan harbour front, so the produce is landed a few metres from where it is sold: oysters in winter, sea squirt in spring, live fish in tanks, and the dried and salted lines of the south coast. Sliced raw fish is the standard order, bought at a stall and taken to a preparation counter as elsewhere. Two local items are worth knowing. Chungmu gimbap, small plain seaweed rice rolls served separately with spicy squid and radish, was invented here for fishermen because rolls with fillings spoiled at sea. And kkulppang, honey bread - a fried, filled, syrup-glazed bun - is sold by a row of competing bakeries with queues, and is Tongyeong's most-photographed food. Dongpirang mural village climbs the hill directly behind.

What you actually see

• The harbour front stalls - oysters, sea squirt, live tanks.
• Chungmu gimbap - the plain rolls with squid and radish alongside.
• Kkulppang - the honey bread bakeries and their queues.
• Gangguan - the working harbour the market sits on.

When to go

Winter for oysters, spring for sea squirt. Mornings for the fish, afternoons for the bakeries. Weekends are busy.

Honest expectations

Raw fish is priced by weight with a separate preparation charge - confirm both first. The honey bread bakeries all sell much the same thing despite the queues. Little English.

Nearby

Dongpirang mural village is up the hill; the Mireuksan cable car and luge are outside town.