Moore Street Market

Moore Street has been a market since the eighteenth century and was for generations the place Dubliners bought fruit and vegetables, with traders calling their prices in a delivery that became a city cliche and is still audible. It has shrunk - a few dozen stalls now against hundreds in its heyday - and the street around it has changed completely, with African, Asian and Eastern European shops, butchers and restaurants making it the most genuinely multicultural street in the city, which is its real interest now. The other half of the story is the buildings. Numbers 14 to 17 were the final headquarters of the 1916 Rising leaders, who evacuated the GPO and tunnelled through the terrace before surrendering from number 16; the site's protection and the redevelopment of the surrounding block have been fought over in the courts and on the street for two decades and are not settled.

What you actually see

• The fruit stalls - a few dozen traders, and the calling that goes with them.
• The 1916 terrace - numbers 14 to 17, the leaders' last headquarters.
• The international shops - African, Asian and Eastern European businesses.
• The redevelopment fight - a dispute running two decades and still unresolved.

When to go

Any weekday morning, when the stalls are fullest. It quietens by late afternoon. Sundays are very quiet.

Honest expectations

Much reduced from its heyday - a few dozen stalls, not a great market. The street is scruffy and the surrounding redevelopment is contentious and visible. The 1916 buildings are not open as a museum.

Nearby

Henry Street and the GPO are alongside; the Rotunda and Parnell Square are north.