Chungmu Gimbap

Ordinary gimbap has the fillings rolled inside with the rice, and in a hot boat that is a problem - the vegetables and egg sour and the whole roll goes off. Chungmu, the old name for Tongyeong, solved it by separating them: the rolls are plain rice and seaweed, thin, cut short, and the accompaniments are served alongside in their own dishes - squid or occasionally octopus in chilli sauce, and cubed radish kimchi. The rolls keep, the sides keep, and nothing spoils in the other. It was sold to fishermen and to passengers at the ferry pier, which is why the older restaurants cluster there, and several of them have been run by the same families for generations. It is cheap, plain and much better than the description suggests, largely because of the squid. It travels well as a takeaway for the island ferries, which is what it was for in the first place.

What you actually see

• The plain rolls - rice and seaweed only, cut short.
• The separate sides - chilli squid and radish kimchi.
• The pier restaurants - old family places near the ferry terminal.
• The reason for it - a roll built not to spoil at sea.

When to go

Any time. Near the ferry terminal it is a natural breakfast or a takeaway for an island crossing. Older places open early and close in the evening.

Honest expectations

The rolls themselves are deliberately plain - the flavour is entirely in the squid. Portions are modest. It is cheap food, served without ceremony.

Nearby

Gangguan harbour, Tongyeong Jungang market and Dongpirang are all close.