Mungyeong Saejae Pass

Saejae was the main crossing of the Sobaek range on the road between the southern provinces and Seoul, and for the Joseon centuries every official, merchant and examination candidate going north on this line walked it. Three gates were built across the defile in the seventeenth century - Jurheulgwan at the bottom, Jogokgwan in the middle, Joryeonggwan at the top - and all three stand, restored, with stretches of wall running off into the trees. The track between them is about six and a half kilometres, unsurfaced, with a stream alongside, old milestones, a rest station rebuilt where travellers stopped, and a well. It is deliberately kept as earth rather than paved, which is unusual in Korea and much of the appeal. A large sageuk film set sits near the first gate and is ticketed separately. The walk one way to the top is two to three hours at an easy pace, and buses can be arranged at either end.

What you actually see

• The three gates - Jurheul, Jogok and Joryeong across the defile.
• The earth track - six and a half kilometres, unpaved by policy.
• The wayside remains - milestones, well and rebuilt rest station.
• The film set - a large period backlot near the first gate.

When to go

April to June and October, with autumn colour the peak and the busiest. Summer is humid but shaded. The track is walkable in winter but icy in stretches.

Honest expectations

It is a long walk with a gentle but continuous climb, and returning means the same distance back unless transport is arranged. The gates are restorations. The film set is a commercial attraction, not part of the historic road.

Nearby

Mungyeong's coal museum and ceramics kilns are in the county; Danyang is north over the range.