Aliwal Shoal

Aliwal Shoal is a fossilised sand dune about five kilometres off Umkomaas, drowned by rising seas and now a rocky reef in roughly five to thirty metres of water. It takes its name from the Aliwal, a ship that almost struck it in 1849; two wrecks, the Produce and the Nebo, lie on the reef and are dived regularly. What brings divers is the animals. Ragged-tooth sharks aggregate here in winter and spring in numbers, gathering in gullies and caves in a mating season, and they are approachable to divers despite an appearance that suggests otherwise. Baited shark dives for oceanic blacktips run from the same launch, which is a contested practice divers argue about. The launch itself is memorable: rubber ducks are driven out through the Umkomaas river-mouth surf, which is a wet and bumpy start to any day.

What you actually see

• The raggies - ragged-tooth sharks aggregating in gullies through winter and spring.
• The two wrecks - the Produce and the Nebo lying on the reef.
• The surf launch - inflatables driven out through the river-mouth breakers.
• The baited dives - blacktip shark dives that divers themselves argue about.

When to go

June to November for the shark aggregation. A day, including two dives.

Honest expectations

The surf launch is rough and gets people seasick before the dive starts. Visibility swings between excellent and poor with no warning. Currents can be strong - this is not a beginner site in most conditions. Baited shark dives are ethically contested; decide before booking.

Nearby

Umkomaas is the launch town; Durban is up the coast.