Victoria Street Market

Durban has the largest population of Indian descent of any city outside India, and this market is where its kitchens buy. The current building, with its cluster of small domes, opened in 1990 after the old Indian market burned; inside are around a hundred and fifty stalls over two levels. The ground floor is the working part - spice merchants with open sacks of chilli, turmeric, cumin and coriander, blending masalas to order, including the famous mother-in-law masala at the hot end and a milder version beside it - along with a large fish and meat section, vegetables and dried goods. Upstairs is largely curios and clothing aimed at visitors. Buy spices downstairs and treat upstairs with more scepticism. The area around the market is a busy working part of central Durban and needs ordinary city care, particularly with bags and phones.

What you actually see

• Spice merchants - open sacks and masalas blended to order at the counter.
• Mother-in-law masala - the hot blend, with a milder one sold beside it.
• The fish counter - a long working section serving the city's kitchens.
• Two registers - a real market downstairs, curios for visitors upstairs.

When to go

All year; weekday mornings when the traders are busiest. Two hours.

Honest expectations

The upstairs curio section is overpriced and pushy. The area outside is congested and needs care with belongings. Parking nearby is difficult. Fish and meat sections smell strongly and are not for everyone.

Nearby

The Juma Musjid mosque is adjacent; the beachfront is east.