Vranje

Vranje sits in a valley in the far south and kept an Ottoman character longer than most Serbian towns, which shows in what survives: the Pasha's konak, now the national museum, with rooms arranged around a courtyard, the White Bridge over the Vranjska river with a story of forbidden love attached to it, and the house of Bora Stanković, the writer whose novels and stories fixed the town's atmosphere of longing and old songs in the Serbian imagination. That atmosphere has a soundtrack: Vranje is strongly associated with sevdalinka and with brass and tambura music, and songs naming the town are standards. The Markovo Kale fortress ruin stands on a hill above. Local specialities include the sweet slatko preserves the region is known for.

What you actually see

• The Pasha's konak - the Ottoman residence housing the museum.
• The White Bridge - the stone bridge and the legend attached to it.
• Bora Stanković's house - the writer's home kept as a museum.
• Music tradition - the sevdah and brass repertoire tied to the town.

When to go

April to October; summer brings festivals and outdoor music. The museums close on Mondays. Southern Serbia is hot in July and August.

Honest expectations

The Ottoman fabric is fragmentary and scattered among ordinary modern buildings. Museums are small with limited English. The town is not geared to visitors and there is little accommodation. Live music is occasional rather than nightly.

Nearby

Vlasina lake lies northeast; Prohor Pčinjski monastery is south.