Fado

Fado is the soulful song of Portugal, a melancholy music of longing and saudade, that untranslatable ache of nostalgia, born in the taverns and streets of nineteenth-century Lisbon. Sung by a solo voice to the shimmer of the Portuguese guitar, most hauntingly in the small fado houses of the Alfama, it is recognised by UNESCO and remains the emotional heart of the city's culture.

What you actually see

• The song and saudade - the solo voice expressing longing and nostalgia.
• The Portuguese guitar - the teardrop-shaped guitar that accompanies it.
• The Alfama fado houses - the intimate taverns where it is best heard.
• The Fado Museum - the museum telling its story in Lisbon.

When to go

Year-round; an evening at a fado house in the Alfama or Bairro Alto. Smaller, traditional houses give a truer experience than the big tourist dinner-shows; Coimbra has its own student tradition.

Honest expectations

Big tourist dinner-shows can feel staged and pricey; a small, traditional Alfama house gives the raw, intimate experience, sometimes with a minimum spend. Silence is expected during the singing. It is an art of deep emotion rather than lively entertainment.

Nearby

The Alfama and Bairro Alto districts of Lisbon are its home; the Fado Museum tells its story.