Lisbon and the Alfama

The Alfama is the soul of Lisbon, the old Moorish quarter that survived the great earthquake, a tumbling maze of narrow lanes, stairways and tiled houses spilling down the hill below the castle to the Tagus. Rattling yellow trams climb its slopes, fado drifts from tavern doors, washing hangs between the buildings and hilltop terraces open sweeping views, the most atmospheric corner of the city.

History

The name comes from the Arabic al-hamma, "hot springs". Under Moorish rule Alfama was the whole of the city, which later spread west into the Baixa, and the 1755 earthquake left it standing as a labyrinth of narrow streets; the Castle of São Jorge above it was a royal residence until the early 16th century (Wikipedia, Alfama).

What's there

• The Alfama lanes - the maze of stairways and tiled houses below the castle.
• Tram 28 - the famous rattling yellow tram climbing the old quarters.
• Sao Jorge Castle - the hilltop Moorish castle with panoramic views.
• The miradouros - the hilltop terrace viewpoints over the city and river.

When to go

Spring and autumn for mild weather and the best light; summer is hot and busy. Early morning gives the lanes and the famous tram 28 before the crowds and pickpockets of the day.

Practical notes

The famous tram 28 is packed and a target for pickpockets, so ride early and mind your belongings. Lisbon is steep and hilly, tiring on the legs and cobbles. The Alfama is a place to wander and get lost rather than tick off sights.

Nearby

Sao Jorge Castle crowns the hill; the Baixa, Chiado and Belem districts are elsewhere in the city.

Key facts