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Casa dos Bicos

A 1523 house faced in diamond-cut stone spikes near the Lisbon waterfront, now the José Saramago foundation.

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WhereLisbon
Nearest cityAlfama, Lisbon
Best seasonYear-round
Time to allowForty-five to ninety minutes
Getting thereRua dos Bacalhoeiros, near Campo das Cebolas; walk from Praça do Comércio
EntryFoundation ticket; ground floor free

The Casa dos Bicos was built in 1523 for Brás de Albuquerque, son of the governor of Portuguese India, and its front is faced with over a thousand pyramidal stones cut to points - a diamond-rustication treatment borrowed from Italian palaces and unique in Lisbon at that scale. The 1755 earthquake took off the upper two floors, which stayed missing until a 1980s restoration rebuilt them, deliberately in a simplified form so the old and new are distinguishable. Excavation during that work exposed Roman fish-salting tanks and a stretch of medieval city wall in the basement, both visible now. Since 2012 the building has housed the José Saramago Foundation, with an exhibition on the Nobel laureate's life and work; his ashes are buried under an olive tree outside, with a line from Memorial do Convento on the stone.

What you actually see

  • The spiked facade - over a thousand diamond-cut stones, unique in Lisbon.
  • The 1980s rebuild - upper floors restored in simplified form after 1755 losses.
  • The excavation - Roman salting tanks and medieval wall in the basement.
  • The Saramago foundation - an exhibition on the writer, with his ashes outside.

When to go

Year-round. Forty-five to ninety minutes. Closed on Sundays. The ground floor with the excavation can be seen without the exhibition ticket.

Honest expectations

Small - the exhibition occupies a couple of floors. Material is mostly in Portuguese with partial English. The upper storeys are a modern reconstruction, not original. The square outside is a busy traffic area.

Nearby

Praça do Comércio is west; the cathedral and Alfama are uphill.

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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