National Pantheon

Santa Engrácia was begun in 1682 and not finished until 1966, which is why obra de Santa Engrácia became the Portuguese expression for a project that never ends. The building is a Greek-cross plan in white limestone with coloured marble inlaid across the floor and walls and a dome added at the very end of the process. Since 1916 it has served as the National Pantheon: tombs of presidents and writers - Almeida Garrett, Guerra Junqueiro, João de Deus, the fado singer Amália Rodrigues, the footballer Eusébio - and cenotaphs to figures buried elsewhere, including Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, Camões and Pedro Álvares Cabral, whose actual remains are in other places. The terrace around the dome gives one of the best views in Lisbon: Alfama roofs, the river, the container port and the 25 de Abril bridge.

History

The first church of Saint Engrácia was sponsored around 1568 by Infanta Maria, daughter of Manuel I, and after earlier buildings collapsed the present church was begun in 1681 to a design by João Antunes. Work ran from 1682 until his death in 1712, King John V then turned his resources to Mafra, and the church was finished, with its dome, only in the 20th century, being reinaugurated in 1966 (Wikipedia, Church of Santa Engrácia).

Highlights

• The dome terrace - a walkway around the top with views over Alfama and the Tagus.
• The tombs - presidents, writers, Amália Rodrigues and Eusébio.
• The cenotaphs - memorials to Vasco da Gama, Camões and others buried elsewhere.
• The 284-year build - the source of the Portuguese phrase for an endless project.

When to go

Year-round. One hour. The Feira da Ladra flea market fills the square outside on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Before you go

The lift does not go all the way; there are stairs to the terrace. Interiors are cold marble and echo. Closed on Mondays. The cenotaphs hold no remains, which surprises people expecting graves.

Nearby

The Feira da Ladra is in the square; São Vicente de Fora is a short walk up.

Key facts