The Sinulog Festival

Sinulog is held in Cebu City on the third Sunday of January in honour of the Santo Niño, the image of the child Jesus that has been venerated here since the sixteenth century, and it has grown into one of the largest festivals in the country, drawing crowds in the millions. Its heart is the dance that gives it its name: a two-steps-forward, one-step-back shuffle said to imitate the current of a river, performed to a relentless drum pattern by contingents from across the region in elaborate painted costumes and headdresses, moving in choreographed blocks along a parade route that takes most of the day to pass. Around it run a fluvial procession at dawn on the river, a solemn walk with the image, novena masses, and a city-wide street party. It is loud, hot, devout and chaotic in equal measure.

What you actually see

• The grand parade - the day-long procession of costumed dancing contingents.
• The fluvial procession - the dawn river procession carrying the image.
• The Santo Niño basilica - the church at the centre of the devotion, packed all week.
• The street celebration - the city-wide party around the parade route.

When to go

The main parade falls on the third Sunday of January, with events building through the preceding week; book flights and rooms months ahead, as the city fills completely. Arrive early on parade day for any kind of viewing spot, and expect road closures across the centre.

Honest expectations

It is enormous, extremely hot and packed shoulder to shoulder for hours, with heavy drinking along the route by evening, so it suits those who enjoy crowds and not those who do not. Pickpocketing is a real risk in the crush and bags should be worn in front. Accommodation prices multiply and sell out early. It is first and foremost a religious devotion, and the church parts of the week deserve to be treated as such.

Nearby

Cebu's beaches, Moalboal and Kawasan Falls are elsewhere on the island; Bohol is a fast ferry away.