San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur curls around a horseshoe bay on the southern Pacific coast, a fishing town turned surf and travel hub with a hilltop Christ statue looking down over the water. The town beach is for sunsets and boats rather than surfing; the waves are north and south along the coast at Maderas, Remanso and Hermosa, reached by shuttle trucks that run several times a day. Beyond surfing there is sport fishing, a turtle nesting refuge at La Flor where olive ridleys arrive in mass arribadas, and sunsets that the whole town turns out for.

What you actually see

• Playa Maderas - the main beginner and intermediate surf beach north of town.
• Christ of the Mercy statue - the hilltop viewpoint over the bay.
• La Flor turtle refuge - olive ridley arribadas in season, south of town.
• The bay at sunset - the town's fixed evening ritual.

When to go

The dry season from November to April brings reliable sun and offshore winds for surf. Turtle arribadas at La Flor peak roughly between July and December. The green season from May brings rain, fewer people and cheaper stays.

Honest expectations

The town has a strong party reputation that dominates some nights and some streets - travellers seeking quiet should base at the beaches rather than in town. Surf beaches need a shuttle or taxi; nothing surfable is walkable from the centre. Rip currents are real and there are no lifeguards on most beaches. Turtle viewing must be with the refuge rangers, and lights and flash are prohibited.

Nearby

Ometepe island across the lake, Rivas and the Costa Rican border an hour south.