Chacocente Wildlife Refuge

Chacocente protects a stretch of beach where olive ridley turtles nest in arribadas, smaller than at La Flor but on a wilder shore, and behind it one of the best surviving blocks of Pacific dry tropical forest, a habitat that has been cleared almost everywhere else on this coast. The forest is leafless and grey through the dry season and turns dense green within weeks of the first rains, and it holds howler monkeys, deer, iguanas, parrots and a strong bird list. Rangers run night patrols during nesting and supervise visitors. Access is the difficulty: a rough track with river crossings that are impassable after rain, which is the same period as the nesting season, so trips need planning.

What you actually see

• Turtle arribadas - olive ridleys nesting on a wild undeveloped beach.
• Dry tropical forest - a rare surviving block behind the shore.
• Howler monkeys and parrots - the forest wildlife of the refuge.
• The seasonal change - grey leafless forest turning green after rain.

When to go

July to January for turtles, peaking around September to November. December to April is easiest for access but has few turtles. The overlap between good access and nesting is narrow, which is the central problem in planning a visit.

Honest expectations

The access track has river crossings that flood in the rains, exactly when the turtles nest, so a four-wheel drive and local advice are needed. Facilities are camping or very basic ranger lodging. Nesting is supervised with strict rules. Mosquitoes are severe.

Nearby

Santa Teresa lies northeast; the Carazo coast runs north and south.