Budhanilkantha

The image at Budhanilkantha is a single block of black basalt about five metres long, carved into a reclining Vishnu floating on the coils of the serpent Shesha in a recessed water tank, his legs crossed and his four hands holding the discus, conch, lotus and mace. It is thought to date from the seventh or eighth century and was probably brought from outside the valley, since no stone of this kind occurs locally, and how it was moved is not known. The site is a major pilgrimage place, busiest at Haribodhini Ekadashi in autumn when thousands come. Tradition holds that the king of Nepal may not look at the image, on pain of death, which is why monarchs historically did not visit. It lies at the foot of the Shivapuri hills.

History

Local legend says the statue lay lost underground for centuries until farmers ploughing the field struck the stone and dug out the great reclining Vishnu, 5 metres long, now lying in a pool 13 metres across. Another legend tells that King Pratap Malla (1641-1674) had a vision that the kings of Nepal would die if they visited the temple (Wikipedia, Budhanilkantha Temple).

What's there

• The reclining Vishnu - five metres of carved basalt in the water tank.
• The serpent bed - the coils of Shesha the figure rests on.
• Pilgrim ritual - offerings, flowers and worship at the tank edge.
• The Shivapuri backdrop - the forested hills rising behind.

When to go

October to April for the weather; Haribodhini Ekadashi in October or November is the great festival and brings enormous crowds. Early morning is quietest for an ordinary visit.

Good to know

Non-Hindus are generally not admitted to the tank enclosure and view the image from outside, which limits the visit. Photography is restricted. The site is small and takes half an hour. It is busy with pilgrims at most times.

Nearby

Shivapuri Nagarjun park begins above; Kathmandu lies south.