Changu Narayan

Changu Narayan stands on a ridge above the Kathmandu valley and is generally held to be the oldest temple in it, a shrine to Vishnu whose site has been in continuous worship since at least the fifth century, as a stone inscription in the courtyard dated to 464 records. The present two-tiered pagoda, rebuilt after a fire, is surrounded by an astonishing collection of stone sculpture spanning more than a thousand years, including a great kneeling Garuda with a human face said to be among the oldest such figures in Nepal, a ten-armed Vishnu, and struts and doorways of very fine woodcarving. It is part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage listing but sees a fraction of the crowds of the durbar squares, and the small village beside it, with its museum of Newar life, is a quiet place. The 2015 earthquake damaged parts of the complex and restoration has continued since.

What you actually see

• The pagoda temple - the two-tiered shrine with its gilded doorway and carved struts.
• The Garuda - the ancient kneeling stone figure facing the temple.
• The fifth-century inscription - the dated stone that anchors the site's antiquity.
• The sculpture collection - a thousand years of stone carving around the courtyard.

When to go

October to April is clearest and most comfortable; the ridge catches a breeze and views over the valley are best after rain has cleared the air. Mornings are quiet. It combines naturally with Bhaktapur below or with a walk down from Nagarkot.

Honest expectations

It is small and a visit is a couple of hours, so it is best paired with Bhaktapur rather than made a trip in itself. Earthquake damage and the long restoration mean scaffolding and closed sections at times. The village outside has grown a row of souvenir stalls. Non-Hindus may look at the temple from the courtyard but not enter the inner shrine.

Nearby

Bhaktapur's durbar square is twenty minutes below; Nagarkot's ridge viewpoint is a walk or drive away.