Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur was one of three rival kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley, and because it developed away from the modern city's traffic and sprawl, it kept more of itself than the others. The old town is largely brick, largely traffic-free, and organised around a chain of squares: Durbar Square with its palace and Fifty-five Window balcony, Taumadhi with the five-tiered Nyatapola temple standing on its stepped plinth, and Dattatreya with the celebrated carved Peacock Window. Pottery Square is exactly what it sounds like, with clay being thrown and rows of pots drying in the sun. The 2015 earthquake damaged the town badly and reconstruction has been long and visible, with some monuments still scaffolded and others rebuilt using traditional timber joinery.

What you actually see

• Nyatapola Temple - the five-tiered temple on its stepped plinth, guarded by paired stone figures.
• Durbar Square - the palace complex, Golden Gate and Fifty-five Window balcony.
• Pottery Square - working potters, wheels and drying yards.
• The Peacock Window - the intricately carved wooden window in Dattatreya Square.

When to go

October to November for clear post-monsoon skies and festivals, or March to April. Bisket Jatra, the new year festival with its chariot procession and tug of war, is the town's biggest event. Staying overnight gives you the squares in the early morning without day visitors.

Honest expectations

The entry fee for foreigners is high by Nepali standards and is collected at every gate. Earthquake reconstruction is ongoing, so some monuments are under wraps and the skyline in photographs may not match what you see. The main squares get busy with tour groups in the middle of the day, while the back lanes stay quiet all day.

Nearby

Patan and Kathmandu complete the three royal cities; Changu Narayan temple is a short trip north.