The Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath is a white hemispherical dome about 36 metres high set on a stepped mandala base, with a gilded tower above it carrying the painted eyes on all four sides, and it is among the largest stupas in Asia. Its present importance is tied to the Tibetan community: Tibetans settled around it from 1959 and built more than fifty gompas in the surrounding streets, which turned a valley pilgrimage site into the working centre of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. The kora, the clockwise circuit around the base, runs continuously through the day and fills at dusk with people walking, spinning the wheels and lighting butter lamps. The spire was badly cracked in the 2015 earthquake and was rebuilt by 2016. It is part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage inscription.

History

The Gopalarajavamsavali says the town of Boudha was founded by the Licchavi king Shivadeva, around 590-604, while other chronicles date it to Manadeva, 464-505; Newar chronicles name the stupa, Khasti, among four found by King Vrisadeva around 400, or tell that Manadeva built it to atone for unwittingly killing his father, and an inscription links Shivadeva with it, perhaps as a restorer. The present structure was most likely built in the 14th century, and one text says the stupa gave birth to Tibetan Buddhism. From 1959 many Tibetans settled around it, in 1979 it became a World Heritage Site, and the earthquake of 25 April 2015 badly cracked its spire, after which the stupa was reconsecrated from 22 November 2015 with a new central life-tree (Wikipedia, Boudha Stupa).

What you'll find

• The dome and eyes - the white stupa on its mandala base.
• The kora at dusk - the circuit filling with walkers and butter lamps.
• The surrounding gompas - the monasteries built in the streets around.
• Rooftop terraces - the cafes looking down onto the stupa.

When to go

October to April for the weather. Dusk is when the circuit is busiest and most alive. Losar, Tibetan new year in February or March, brings the largest gatherings and full ceremonial.

What to expect

The streets around are heavily commercial, with shops and cafes aimed squarely at visitors. Walking anticlockwise or standing in the flow is discourteous. It is crowded at dusk and at festivals. The entry charge applies to the whole enclosure.

Nearby

Pashupatinath lies south; Kopan monastery is on the hill above.

Key facts