Tula

Between Teotihuacan's fall and the Aztec rise, central Mexico answered to Tula - Tollan of the legends, capital of the Toltecs from roughly 900 to 1150 and the city later dynasties claimed descent from as a matter of prestige. Its signature stands where it stood a thousand years ago: atop Pyramid B, the temple of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli, four basalt Atlantean warriors four and a half metres tall, carved as butterfly-breastplated soldiers with atlatl darts, once roof-bearers for the sanctuary and now the most photographed stone soldiers in Mexico. Around them spread the Burnt Palace's columned halls, ballcourts, friezes of prowling jaguars and coyotes, and chacmool figures - the whole repertoire that appears again, mysteriously twinned, at Chichen Itza far to the east. The site museum holds finds; the plaza holds wind and long views over the Tula river valley. Modest crowds make it the quiet alternative to Teotihuacan for a first-rank ancient capital.

What you actually see

• The Atlanteans - four basalt warrior columns on the pyramid's summit.
• The Burnt Palace - forests of columns from the administrative halls.
• The friezes - jaguars, coyotes and eagles circling the pyramid.
• The chacmools - reclining offering figures the Toltecs made famous.

When to go

Dry-season mornings for cool climbing and hard light on the basalt; the plateau is shadeless, so beat the midday sun. Weekdays are remarkably quiet.

Honest expectations

Beyond the crowning warriors, the architecture is lower and more ruined than Teotihuacan - the power here is sculptural, not skyline. The refinery on the valley's edge occasionally intrudes on photographs. Bring water; site services are basic.

Nearby

Tula de Allende's fortress-monastery of San Jose anchors the town; the Padre Tembleque aqueduct and Pachuca lie within a Hidalgo circuit.