Spaccanapoli

Naples was founded as the Greek city of Neapolis, and its grid of three long parallel decumani with cross-streets is still legible in the modern street plan. Spaccanapoli is the popular name for the lower decumanus, a straight narrow line running from the Spanish Quarters to Forcella, which appears from above to split the old city, which is what the name means. Along and around it stand the Gesù Nuovo with its faceted stone facade, the cloister of Santa Chiara tiled in majolica, and Via San Gregorio Armeno, where workshops make nativity figures year-round, including satirical ones of current public figures.

What you'll find

• The straight cut - a Greek-era street line running through the old city.
• Santa Chiara cloister - majolica-tiled columns and benches in a garden.
• The Gesù Nuovo - a facade of faceted pyramidal stone blocks.
• San Gregorio Armeno - workshops making nativity figures all year.

When to go

Year-round; December is when the nativity workshops are busiest and the street is packed. Churches close for a midday break. Evenings are lively.

Things to know

The streets are crowded, noisy and chaotic with scooters. Petty theft is a real concern in the busiest stretches. Church opening hours are irregular.

Nearby

Naples Underground is entered nearby; the archaeological museum is north.

Key facts