Zanskar Valley

Zanskar runs south of the Indus behind the Zanskar range, drained by a river that cuts a gorge through the mountains, and until recently the only road in crossed Pensi La from Kargil and closed with the first snow, leaving the valley isolated for six or seven months. Padum is the main settlement. The monasteries are the draw: Phuktal, built into a cliff cave and reached only on foot, Karsha on a hillside above the valley floor, Stongdey, Zangla and Sani. Barley is grown on the valley floor in a very short season. A new road link through the gorge has been under construction for years, changing access.

What you actually see

• Phuktal monastery - buildings packed into a cliff cave, reached on foot.
• Karsha and Stongdey - large gompas on the slopes above the valley.
• The Zanskar gorge - the river cutting north through the range.
• The barley valley - short-season fields around Padum.

When to go

June to September, when Pensi La is open; the road closes with snow from around October to late May or June. Winter access is on foot over the frozen river or by limited air links.

Honest expectations

Access is long and rough, a full day or more from Kargil. Facilities are basic and unreliable. Road construction through the gorge has changed conditions repeatedly and status should be checked before travelling.

Nearby

Kargil lies north over Pensi La; Leh is northeast.