Tso Moriri

Tso Moriri lies at about 4,522 metres in the Changthang plateau, some twenty-eight kilometres long and closed at both ends, with brown and ochre mountains rising directly from the shore and no outlet, which makes the water brackish. It is a protected wetland and among the few Indian breeding sites for the black-necked crane, along with bar-headed geese and brahminy ducks. Changpa nomads graze yak, sheep and the goats that produce pashmina wool around it, living in tents on the plateau. Karzok village on the shore, with an old monastery, is one of the highest permanent settlements anywhere.

What you actually see

• The lake - twenty-eight kilometres of blue water at 4,500 metres.
• The black-necked cranes - one of India's few breeding populations.
• The Changpa camps - nomad tents and pashmina goat herds.
• Karzok - a shore village and monastery among the highest inhabited places.

When to go

June to September; the lake freezes in winter and roads become difficult or impassable. Cranes are present through the summer breeding season. Nights are below freezing even in July.

Honest expectations

At 4,500 metres altitude sickness is a serious risk and acclimatisation in Leh first is essential. An Inner Line Permit is required. Accommodation is basic camps and homestays with no heating. Camping on the shore is restricted to protect breeding birds.

Nearby

Tso Kar lies northwest; Leh is northwest beyond it.