Mathura

Mathura is held in Hindu tradition to be the birthplace of Krishna, and the Krishna Janmabhoomi temple complex marks the spot, drawing pilgrims year-round and vast numbers at Janmashtami. The city stands on the Yamuna with ghats along the bank where evening lamps are floated, Vishram Ghat being the principal one. It was also, two thousand years ago, the centre of the Mathura school of sculpture under the Kushans, whose red spotted sandstone Buddhas, Jain tirthankaras and yakshis are among the foundations of Indian art; the Government Museum holds one of the best collections of them anywhere.

What you actually see

• The Janmabhoomi complex - the temple marking Krishna's traditional birthplace.
• Vishram Ghat - the main riverside ghat with evening lamp ceremonies.
• The Government Museum - Kushan-period Mathura school sculpture.
• The old lanes - sweet shops, temples and pilgrim streets behind the ghats.

When to go

October to March for comfortable weather; Janmashtami in August or September and Holi in spring bring enormous crowds. The Braj Holi celebrations here are famously boisterous.

Honest expectations

Security at the main temple complex is strict, with phones and bags prohibited. The Yamuna is polluted. Pilgrim crowds and persistent priests asking for donations are constant at the ghats.

Nearby

Vrindavan lies north; Agra is southeast.