Holi in the Braj Country

Holi is celebrated across northern India on one main day in late February or March, but in the Braj country around Mathura and Vrindavan it stretches over more than a week and has its own local forms. Barsana and Nandgaon hold the lathmar version, in which women drive men from the neighbouring village back with long sticks while they shield themselves. Temple courtyards in Vrindavan fill with dry powder and coloured water thrown by the sackful, to drums and singing, in very dense crowds. Away from the temple towns it is a simpler street affair: powder on faces, water on strangers, sweets afterwards, and most of a city outdoors by mid-morning.

What you actually see

• Lathmar Holi at Barsana - the stick-and-shield version staged over two days between neighbouring villages.
• Temple courtyards in Vrindavan - powder and coloured water thrown in dense crowds to drumming and song.
• Street Holi - open play in lanes and squares, where anyone outdoors is a legitimate target.
• The evening after - streets emptying, everyone stained pink, fried snacks and sweets shared indoors.

When to go

Holi falls on the full moon of Phalguna, which lands in late February or March and shifts each year, so check the date before booking anything. Braj celebrations begin several days ahead of the main day. Mornings are the active hours and play thins out by early afternoon. Rooms in Mathura and Vrindavan sell out well in advance.

Honest expectations

Crowds are enormous and the crush inside the temple towns is intense, so many visitors prefer to go with a group or a local guide. Synthetic colours stain skin for days and ruin clothes, and getting powder in the eyes is common. Cameras need proper waterproofing. Transport and room prices climb steeply for the whole week.

Nearby

Agra and the Taj Mahal are about an hour and a half south of Mathura.