Nafpaktos

Nafpaktos has one of the most photogenic harbours in Greece: a small circular basin enclosed by curving stone moles that end in two round towers, with a gap between them barely wide enough for a fishing boat. Above it the castle climbs the hillside in five walled terraces, each connected to the next, descending on both sides to meet the harbour walls, so the whole town was once enclosed within a single system of fortification. The walls are Venetian over Byzantine over ancient foundations, and the upper citadel gives a view across the gulf to the Peloponnese and the Rio-Antirrio bridge. Below, the harbour quay is lined with cafes, and a pebble beach runs east under plane trees.

What you actually see

• The circular harbour - stone moles and twin towers enclosing the basin.
• The tiered castle - five levels of walls climbing from harbour to summit.
• The citadel view - the gulf, the bridge and the Peloponnese opposite.
• The waterfront - cafes around the basin and the pebble beach beyond.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the walk up the walls; summer evenings are lively around the harbour. The castle is unlit, so daytime visits only for the upper levels.

Honest expectations

The climb to the citadel is steep on cobbles and stairs, though a road reaches the top for drivers. The beaches are pebble. The harbour is small enough to walk around in ten minutes, so the castle carries the day.

Nearby

The Rio-Antirrio bridge and Patras lie west; Galaxidi and Delphi are east along the gulf.