Galaxidi

Galaxidi grew wealthy in the nineteenth century from sailing ships trading across the Mediterranean, and when steam replaced sail the money stopped and the town stopped with it, which is why its centre is a nearly intact ensemble of captains' mansions in cut stone with iron balconies and painted ceilings. Two small harbours frame the town, one lined with tavernas and fishing boats, the other quieter under pines. The Nautical and Historical Museum holds ship models, figureheads, navigation instruments and the town's logbooks. Across the water rise the cliffs of Parnassos and the Gulf of Corinth stretches east. On Clean Monday, Galaxidi holds its famous flour war, when the whole town pelts itself with coloured flour in the streets.

History

Modern Galaxidi stands on the site of ancient Haleion, a city of western Locris, with traces of people from prehistoric times and a peak in the Early Helladic period at sites such as Anemokambi, Pelekaris, Kefalari and the islet of Apsifia; a significant Mycenaean settlement has been found at Villa, and the hill of St Athanasios held a fortified Geometric settlement (Wikipedia, Galaxidi).

What's there

• The captains' mansions - nineteenth-century stone houses in the old quarter.
• The two harbours - a working fishing port and a quiet pine-fringed inlet.
• The maritime museum - models, instruments and archives of the sailing era.
• The flour war - the Clean Monday street festival, dates following Orthodox Easter.

When to go

Spring and autumn for walking the town and the coast; summer weekends bring Athenian visitors. Clean Monday, seven weeks before Orthodox Easter, is the town's biggest day.

Things to know

Beaches are pebble and small; this is a town for wandering and eating rather than swimming. Many mansions are private and can only be admired from the street. Restaurants on the harbour charge accordingly.

Nearby

Delphi is half an hour inland; Nafpaktos lies west along the gulf shore.

Key facts