Arachova

Arachova sits at around 950 metres on a steep flank of Parnassos, its stone houses stacked in tiers along a single main street that follows the mountain contour. It has two lives: in summer a quiet market town known for weaving, hand-loomed rugs and woollens still sold along the street, for its formaela cheese, grilled in slices, and for honey and red wine; in winter it fills with Athenians heading for the Parnassos ski centre above, and the same street becomes a line of bars, boutiques and full guesthouses. A stairway of 264 steps climbs to the clock tower on the rock above the town, with views to the Corinthian Gulf. The festival of Agios Georgios in April brings traditional dress and a footrace by the old men of the town.

What you actually see

• The tiered stone town - houses stacked along a single contour street.
• The clock tower - reached by a long stair, with gulf views.
• The weaving shops - hand-loomed rugs and woollens sold on the main street.
• The formaela cheese - the local cheese, grilled and served hot.

When to go

Winter weekends for the resort atmosphere and snow, though prices peak and rooms sell out. May to October for walking on Parnassos and quiet streets. Midweek any season is calmer and cheaper.

Honest expectations

In high winter season Arachova is expensive, crowded and traffic-choked on a road never designed for it. Out of season some places close entirely. The town is steep, with long stairways rather than level streets.

Nearby

Delphi is ten minutes west; the Parnassos ski centre and the Corycian Cave lie above.