Trani

Trani's cathedral was begun in 1099 and stands on an open apron of paving directly beside the water, with no square or buildings behind it, so it is seen against the sea from almost every angle; it is built of a local limestone that weathers very pale, sometimes described as pink-white. Three churches are stacked in it: the upper church, a lower church, and beneath that the hypogeum of San Leucio, an earlier structure. Bronze doors of 1175 by Barisano da Trani survive. The Swabian castle of Frederick II stands nearby on the shore, and a fishing harbour curves in front of the old town.

What you actually see

• The seaside cathedral - a pale Romanesque church on the water's edge.
• The three levels - upper church, lower church and earlier hypogeum.
• The bronze doors - twelfth-century work by Barisano da Trani.
• The Swabian castle - Frederick II's fortress on the same shore.

When to go

April to October; the cathedral closes for a midday break. Light on the stone is best in late afternoon. Summer weekends fill the harbour restaurants.

Honest expectations

The cathedral shuts at midday for several hours. The lower levels have separate access hours. Harbour restaurants are geared to visitors with prices to match.

Nearby

Castel del Monte lies inland; Bari is southeast.