Gythio

Gythio was the port of Sparta and later a Roman town made rich by purple dye extracted from murex shells; today it is a working fishing harbour whose pastel houses climb the slope in tiers above a quayside lined with fish tavernas. A causeway leads to the islet of Kranai, where a lighthouse of 1873 built in Maltese stone stands beside the Tzanetakis tower, now a museum of the Mani; in legend this is where Paris and Helen spent their first night after leaving Sparta. Above the town sit the remains of an ancient theatre, small but well preserved, tucked beside a modern military area. The beaches run north toward Mavrovouni, long stretches of sand where loggerhead turtles nest in summer.

What you actually see

• The tiered waterfront - pastel houses above a working fishing quay.
• Kranai islet - the causeway, the 1873 lighthouse and the tower museum.
• The ancient theatre - a compact Roman-era theatre above the town.
• Mavrovouni beach - a long sand beach with turtle nesting in summer.

When to go

Spring and autumn for comfortable sightseeing; midsummer is hot but the beaches are the draw. The fish market and quayside are liveliest in the early morning.

Honest expectations

The town is pleasant rather than spectacular, and the waterfront tavernas are geared to visitors with prices to match. The ancient theatre sits beside a fenced military zone, which limits access at times. Traffic through the centre is heavy in season.

Nearby

Areopoli and the Mani begin south; Sparta and Mystras lie inland to the north.