Areopoli

Areopoli sits on the western shelf of the Mani where the Taygetus foothills meet the sea, and it is the practical capital of the peninsula: a small town built entirely in grey local stone, with tower houses, flagged squares and lanes that open suddenly onto views of the Messenian Gulf. The old quarter around the church of the Taxiarches is the finest part, its bell tower and carved relief panels of the eighteenth century among the best stone carving in the Mani; another church, Agios Ioannis, holds frescoes. The town is the natural base for the region, with tavernas, guesthouses in converted towers and the only real shops for many kilometres, and every road south into Inner Mani starts here. Mani honey, olive oil and cured pork are sold in the shops around the square.

What you actually see

• The Taxiarches church - carved reliefs and a distinctive stone bell tower.
• The old quarter - tower houses and flagged lanes in grey stone.
• The main square - the town's social centre, with tavernas and shops.
• The gulf views - the Messenian Gulf and Taygetus from the edges of town.

When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal; the Mani in midsummer is hot and treeless, and winter brings dramatic storms off the gulf. Easter and August fill the guesthouses.

Honest expectations

The town is small and quiet, seen in a couple of hours, and functions mainly as a base. Restaurants are limited outside the season. Streets are narrow and parking near the old quarter is difficult.

Nearby

The Diros caves are ten minutes south; Limeni's harbour is minutes below, and Vathia lies further down the peninsula.