Meganisi

Meganisi is the largest of the islets scattered in the channel between Lefkada and the mainland, about twenty square kilometres of olive terraces and pine with an indented coast of small bays. Three settlements hold the population: Vathy and Spartochori, both above harbours where yachts moor, and Katomeri on the ridge between them. The coast is the attraction, particularly the sea caves on the southern shore, of which Papanikolis is the largest in Greece after Melissani, a cavern over a hundred metres deep entered by boat with a small beach inside. Beaches such as Fanari, Limonari and Agios Ioannis are pebble and quiet even in August. There are few cars, limited buses, and the island empties completely in winter.

What you actually see

• Papanikolis cave - a large sea cave entered by boat, with a beach inside.
• The harbour villages - Vathy and Spartochori above their small ports.
• The pebble coves - Limonari, Fanari and other quiet beaches.
• The olive terraces - stone-walled farmland across the interior.

When to go

May, June and September for warm water and open tavernas without August prices. Winter reduces the ferry to a skeleton service and closes almost everything.

Honest expectations

There is little to do beyond swimming, walking and eating, which is the appeal but not for everyone. A scooter or car helps, as the villages are spread out and buses are rare. The sea caves need a boat trip, usually booked from Nydri.

Nearby

Lefkada and Nydri lie across the channel; Kastos and Kalamos islets are further out.